Chardonnay has always been under attack, especially in Europe, for reasons familiar to many wine lovers. But the traditional image no longer holds true. While white Burgundy faces an identity crisis, Australian Chardonnay is finding its way back on stage with lean, mineral Chablis-like wines from lesser-known cool climates like Orange and Tumbarumba. These wines are slowly earning a reputation in Europe, mainly due to the new worldwide preference for more refined and clear wine styles. Sauvignon Blanc and to a lesser extent Riesling have clearly paved the path for modern Chardonnay. Big New World producers like Yellow Tail have changed their packaging from white bottles and luscious golden labels to green bottles and plainer labels in which green predominates. It is no longer in Burgundy that the most interesting Chardonnays are produced these days.