© Millefeuille PressTONG is based in Belgium, at the heart of Europe.
The word is Flemish for "tongue".

TONG N°2
Terroir

There is no scientific evidence that points a direct link between soil and a wine's aromas. They are defined by grape varieties, and only develop during alcoholic fermentation. Does that mean terroir is in the fermentation? And how about the following? The New World has adopted the Old World concept of terroir and turned it into a lucrative business. If you make a single vineyard wine, the wine becomes exclusive and worth more. You can reinvest the profits and keep improving its quality. The wine-grower can say: "I was right when I chose this particular parcel to grow my vines on, it has fantastic terroir". But in fact, he's talking about money. And more money means more terroir.
In this issue, we haven't sought a definitive truth about terroir, but we've tried to provide a panorama of views on the subject. Too many questions remain, too many people think they have found the truth.

Content
 

Grapes are terroir
How soil influences the taste of grapes
by Kees van Leeuwen
 
Soil searching
No life in the soil means bad wine
by Claude and Lydia Bourguignon
 
A victory of the unions
Terroir is a historic construct, not a natural phenomenon
by Serge Wolikow and Olivier Jacquet
 
Minerals mean life
Biodynamic soils are the best
by Olivier Humbrecht MW
 
The truth is in the location
The geographic origins of wine determined scientifically
by Alex Martin and John Watling
 
My singular obsession with terroir
About single vineyard wines in the New World
by Brian Croser
 
Kees van Leeuwen
Dutchman Kees van Leeuwen is Professor of Viticulture at the University of Bordeaux. He is among the world's leading experts on viticultural issues, and particularly on the terroirs of Bordeaux. He is also technical consultant at the prestigious Château Cheval Blanc in Saint-Emilion, where he lives.

Back to content
Claude and Lydia Bourguignon
The well-respected agronomists Claude and Lydia Bourguignon, based in Burgundy, have been running their laboratory LAMS (Laboratoire d'Analyse Microbiologique des Sols) since 1989, studying how to produce healthy crop by promoting a soil's microbiological life. They work, among others, with producers Romanée Conti, Jacques Selosse, Didier Dagueneau, Mas de Daumas Gassac, Elio Altare and Vega Sicilia.

Back to content
Serge Wolikow and Olivier Jacquet
Serge Wolikow and Olivier Jacquet are sociologists based at the University of Burgundy in Dijon, where they run the Unesco Chair "Culture et Traditions du Vin", regularly organising seminars on hot wine topics. They look at the world of wine through social developments.

Back to content
Olivier Humbrecht MW
Olivier Humbrecht is the owner and wine-maker of the well-known Domaine Zind-Humbrecht in Alsace, where he makes wine using biodynamic methods. He is also a Master of Wine. His wines are world famous, and that is thanks to biodynamics, he claims.

Back to content
Alex Martin and John Watling
Alex Martin and John Watling work at the Centre of Forensic Science at the University of Western Australia in Adelaide. Their innovative research about how to determine a wine's geographic origins is of worldwide importance.

Back to content
Brian Croser
Brian Croser has played an enormous role in the development of Australia's vineyards. In the 1970's he was among the first wine-growers to develop the concept of single vineyard wines and to look for specific terroirs in the New World. In 1976, he launched Petaluma estate, now recognised as one of Australia's leading producers of terroir-driven wines.

Back to content